Category Archives: Tailoring

B-3 Leather Bomber Jacket Alterations

Some surprises revealed inside this WW II era B-3 bomber jacket while altering it for our famous military museum client.

 

 

Before and After: A size 48 B-3 bomber jacket shortened 4 inches.

A beautiful jacket in outstanding condition. I altered its length for a military museum client on the east coast.   The Heddels company provides a nice historical overview of jacket types created during WWII and other campaigns. Check it out. Good summary of various jacket designs and adaptations for particular uses.

 

General Patton in his B3 bomber jacket. Pic from the Heddels site.

And check out General Patton here in his B-3 bomber jacket! Pic from the Heddels site.

Before alterations: Our client taped the back, indicating the position where he wanted the horizontal top-stitched trim pieces to be moved. B-3 bomber jacket in really amazing condition. It’s rare to find vintage pieces this nice. A pleasure and an honor to work with such a cool piece of history. 

All the lower pieces needed to be removed, then carefully repositioned about 4″ higher and restitched through their existing holes. I ordered some specialty thread from Germany and waited about five weeks before it arrived to do all the new top-stitching.

The factory that originally made this bomber jacket ran 3/16″ green cotton cord under every top-stitched trim piece! Its color made me scratch my head a little- pretty interesting. Functionally, the cord fills in the ‘ditch’ created where separate pieces of sheepskin have been sewn together.

Map pocket on the lower front left also had to be removed, then repositioned 4″ higher and reattached.

A 1″ x 2″ leather tab is top-stitched for reinforcement at the base of each side of the zipper, next to its pull and stop. These tabs had to come off and also be repositioned and restitched 4″ higher.

The horizontal leather trim pieces now are repositioned and stitched directly under the tape line. The jacket’s almost ready for me to turn its lower edge up to top-stitch.

Vintage separating zipper in great shape. No rust or broken teeth. The whole zipper had to be removed and repositioned. I shortened it from the top, actually cutting it after removing several teeth. then prying off its top brass stops, then re-crimping those into their new positions. Some dicey surgery. I searched high and low for suitable, shorter replacement zippers, but alas. There were none I could buy anywhere online or in person. Superb that this original zipper was in such great shape!

Lower front left looks naked without its map pocket, now removed.

B3 bomber jacket before and after its alterations- shortened about 4" total.

B-3 bomber jacket before and after its alterations- shortened about 4″ total.

 

Meanwhile… over at the American Rust Company in Salt Lake City, another B-3 was there, longing to go home with a loving new owner! If that’s you and you’d like me to give it some love, I’d be thrilled to work on another of these jackets. I still have the matching specialty thread plus the industrial machines to sew it. This jacket below needs some good leather reconditioner, some stitched repairs plus a new zipper. Rust never sleeps!

 

Here’s another jacket I spotted around the same time- at the American Rust Company in Salt Lake City. It’s small- about a size 38.

Tattered map pocket needing some TLC and restitching. I reached inside and found a pack of vintage filterless cigarettes!

The American Rust Company features in-store items every day on their media sites! They accept credit card call in, PayPal and Venmo as well. They even do shipping and curbside pickup! Give them a call at (801) 671-3882.

 

Spendy spendy- but eager to go home with a loving collector! Let me know if you wind up as its proud owner and I’ll give it the repair and restoration attention it deserves:)

Mayflower Society Custom Pilgrim

In his custom, colorful new attire,  the Wyoming’s Society of Mayflower Descendants’ Governor, Elwood M. Porter, II.  A delightful gentleman to work with and know.

 

Mayflower Society Wyoming Pilgrim, Governor Elwood Porter

 

Mayflower Society Descendants at #Rootstech 2020, Salt Lake City, Utah

 

Future trend predictions: Ancestor cosplay/re-enactment is gonna get huuuge! and it’ll blossom in some really interesting ways-

 

#Rootstech 2020 genealogy conference recently showcased these super cool Mayflower Society descendants, staging a big parade for them at the Salt Palace. The entire main hall audience viewed their procession plus were urged to attend a special session about the International Mayflower Society and its upcoming 400th year anniversary celebration this September in Plymouth.

 

Mayflower Pilgrim doublet front detail

Mayflower Pilgrim doublet front detail

Period costume drawings in John Peacock's The Chronicle of Western Costume

Period costume drawings in John Peacock’s The Chronicle of Western Costume

Mayflower pilgrim sleeve detail

Mayflower pilgrim sleeve detail

Illustrations from Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion

Illustrations from Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion

Find out more about our Mayflower history at https://www.themayflowersociety.org/

Custom Ren Faire Footwear

Custom renaissance bison hide shoes
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New shoes to rock ren faires across the land. Black bison leather with stitching by hand and machine, black grommets and black lacing. Delicious.

custom renaissance shoes black bison leather
custom renaissance shoes in black bison leather

custom renaissance shoes in black bison leather
custom renaissance shoes in black bison leather

custom renaissance shoes in black bison leather
custom renaissance shoes in black bison leather

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Custom Queen of Hearts: Perfectly Posh

custom queen of hearts costume for perfectly posh ceo

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Custom costumes for some of our favorite corporate ladies:) Plus by Hraefn Wulfson, a fantastic, lighted custom prop scepter of cut and sculpted sintra and acrylic.

 

Custom Queen of Hearts costume, ready to go to the Perfectly Posh convention. Silk velvet and silk organza. Lighted custom prop scepter of cut and sculpted sintra and acrylic.

 

Custom Queen of Hearts costume, ready to go to the Perfectly Posh convention. Silk velvet and silk organza. Lighted custom prop scepter of cut and sculpted sintra and acrylic.

 

Custom Queen of Hearts costume, ready to go to the Perfectly Posh convention. Silk velvet and silk organza.

Custom Queen of Hearts costume, ready to go to the Perfectly Posh convention. Silk velvet and silk organza. Lighted custom prop scepter of cut and sculpted sintra and acrylic. Steel stays throughout corset with steel lacing stays and brass grommets at center back.

Lighted custom prop Queen of Hearts scepter with Perfectly Posh logo, of cut and sculpted sintra and acrylic.

Lighted custom prop Queen of Hearts scepter with Perfectly Posh logo, of cut and sculpted sintra and acrylic.

 

Lighted custom prop Queen of Hearts scepter with Perfectly Posh logo, of cut and sculpted sintra and acrylic.

Lighted custom prop Queen of Hearts scepter with Perfectly Posh logo, of cut and sculpted sintra and acrylic.

 

McGrew Studios, 2019.

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Custom Mosquito Mascot: Spartan Mosquito

Mosquito mascot's lighting effects have several settings and glows red with blood through its vinyl side abdomen "windows"
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Fantastic, fun build for thinkwebstore.com ‘s client, Spartan Mosquito.

 

A custom mosquito mascot, custom Spartan tunics and capes plus a dead mosquito prop.

Custom welded internal framework and fittings with polyethylene foam, fabrics, vinyl,  Worbla,  3D printed and vacuum formed parts plus cool lighting effects!

 

Mosquito mascot's lighting effects have several settings and glows red with blood through its vinyl side abdomen "windows"

Unimpressed with the mosquito costume offerings out there in the wild, Bryan Carter of ThinkWebStore came to us.  Discussions resulted in an agreement to create an oversize, realistic but definitely xenomorphic critter that would enthrall onlookers at its live convention performances plus Spartan Mosquito’s fun online videos.

 

Many thanks to Bryan Carter for hiring us and for your fantastic marketing idea that juxtaposes against the typical landscape. It’s brilliant.

 

National hardware conventions are typically about tile, plumbing and home improvement products. They rarely, if ever, are costume-focused events. ThinkWebStore’s parade of great looking models in custom Spartan garb and weapons, escorting their big captured mosquito around the convention floor is a sight that no one can ever forget! 

 

The Spartan Mosquito Eradicator product itself is ingenious and supplies have been pre-sold out for months.  Check it out: https://spartanmosquito.com/mosquito-control/

 

Hraefn Wulfson, meditating on the layout of custom mosquito mascot legs

Hraefn Wulfson, meditating on the layout of the new custom mosquito mascot legs

 

Crit Killen and Hraefn Wulfson discuss attachment and arrangement methods for the new custom mosquito mascot chassis

Crit Killen and Hraefn Wulfson discuss attachment and arrangement methods for the new custom mosquito mascot chassis

 

Hraefn Wulfson cuts and sands forms that will be used to vacuform wings for the new custom mosquito mascot

Hraefn Wulfson cuts and sands forms that will be used to vacuum form clear plastic wings for the new custom mosquito mascot

 

Isaac Doubek's handiwork- He's made custom 3d printed eyes for the new custom mosquito prop

Isaac Doubek’s handiwork- He’s made custom 3D printed eyes for the new custom mosquito prop

 

Hraefn Wulfson has the mosquito wing bucks ready for vacuum forming in clear plastic

Hraefn Wulfson has the mosquito wing bucks ready for vacuum forming in clear plastic

 

Isaac Doubek's handiwork- He's rewired a multi effect lighting element to portable battery unit for the new custom mosquito mascot

Isaac Doubek’s handiwork- He’s rewired a multi effect lighting element to portable battery unit for the new custom mosquito mascot

 

Crit Killen and Hraefn Wulfson discuss attachment and arrangement methods for the new custom mosquito mascot chassis. Each leg slides into a custom fitting for clarity and speedy assembly

Crit Killen and Hraefn Wulfson discuss attachment and arrangement methods for the new custom mosquito mascot chassis. Each leg slides into a custom fitting for clarity and speedy assembly

 

Crit Killen measures for wing attachment mount on mosquito mascot's welded steel shoulder frame and chassis

Crit Killen measures for wing attachment mount on mosquito mascot’s welded steel shoulder frame and chassis

 

Details of welded steel shoulder frame and chassis for new custom mosquito mascot on a dress dummy the same size as performer

Details of welded steel shoulder frame and chassis for new custom mosquito mascot on a dress dummy the same size as the five foot tall performer

 

Crit Killen and Hraefn Wulfson with the welded steel shoulder frame and chassis for new custom mosquito mascot on a dress dummy the same size as performer

Crit Killen and Hraefn Wulfson with the welded steel shoulder frame and chassis for new custom mosquito mascot on a dress dummy the same size as the five foot tall performer

 

Detail of each custom fitting for leg assembly in the new custom mosquito mascot

Detail of each custom fitting for leg assembly in the new custom mosquito mascot

 

Hraefn Wulfson wearing the new shoulder chassis of custom mosquito mascot with legs attached, casting an interesting shadow

Hraefn Wulfson wearing the new shoulder chassis of custom mosquito mascot with legs attached, casting an interesting shadow

 

Hraefn Wulfson wearing the new shoulder chassis of custom mosquito mascot with legs attached

Hraefn Wulfson wearing the new shoulder chassis of custom mosquito mascot with legs attached

 

Detail: Spartan Mosquito logo heat transfers on Spartan cape backs and wagon banners

Detail: Spartan Mosquito logo heat transfers on red linen Spartan cape backs and wagon banners

 

Hraefn Wulfson arranges the new dead mosquito prop on the convention safe Spartan spear

Hraefn Wulfson arranges the new dead mosquito prop on the convention-safe Spartan spear

 

Hraefn Wulfson adding a few final touches to the dead mosquito prop

Hraefn Wulfson adding a few final touches to the dead mosquito prop

 

Spooky in the daylight, the new mosquito mascot is ready to be disassembled for travel

Spooky even in the daylight, the new mosquito mascot is ready to be disassembled for travel

 

Bryan Carter, Jennifer McGrew and Hraefn Wulfson in a selfie with new mosquito mascot costume

Bryan Carter, Jennifer McGrew and Hraefn Wulfson in a selfie with new mosquito mascot costume

 

Spooky at night in the McGrew Studios parking lot- the new mosquito mascot costume

Spooky at night in the McGrew Studios parking lot- the new mosquito mascot costume

 

Mosquito mascot's lighting effects have several settings and glows red with blood through its vinyl side abdomen "windows"

Mosquito mascot’s internal lighting has several effects and glows red with blood through its vinyl side abdomen “windows”

 

Some late night parking lot paint on the new mosquito mascot. Isaac Doubek and Hraefn Wulfson

Some late night parking lot painting on the new mosquito mascot. Isaac Doubek and Hraefn Wulfson

 

Mosquito mascot's inner steel armature visible through the newly cut abdomen "windows"

Mosquito mascot’s inner steel armature visible through the newly cut abdomen “windows”

 

Ready to go to several national hardware shows on great looking models: Custom Spartan tunics, belts and capes. Linen, jute, fun trims and brooches

Ready to go to several national hardware shows on great looking models: Custom Spartan tunics, belts and capes. Red and white linen, jute, fun trims and brooches

 

Spartan Mosquito custom mascot scale pre-viz 

 

A BIG 2019 project for us involving the team effort and mighty

talents of Hraefn Wulfson, Crit Killen, Isaac Doubek, Carolyn Richardson, Uptown Embroidery and Jennifer McGrew

 

 

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Custom Tailoring: Royal Manticoran Navy Uniforms

Royal Manticoran Navy Custom Uniform

2017. Custom Costume for Dakota

Fans of the Royal Manticoran Navy and Honor Harrington Fan Association celebrate author David Weber’s detailed universe with specific uniforms. We tailored this one for Dakota in a beautiful wool with gold trim, piping and all his military insignia specific to his rank and character in this universe.

Royal Manticoran Navy Custom Uniform
Royal Manticoran Navy Custom Uniform
Royal Manticoran Navy Custom Uniform
Royal Manticoran Navy Custom Uniform

PENNYWISE: CUSTOM COSTUME

Pennywise custom costume by McGrew Studios.

2017:
Victor V. asked us for a custom Pennywise costume for the premiere of IT, and this was a very cool project with some swell fabrics: Two colors of silk dupioni with great rouching and piping details all over the place, then garnished with wool yarn pom poms plus some great paisley trimmings and tassel fringe.  His makeup is by one of the artists at the Fear Factory right here in Salt Lake. Victor tells us he will be resurrecting Pennywise when the IT sequel hits the theaters in 2019:)

custom fitting- in the shop

custom fitting – in the shop

Custom clown spats in white canvas and black leather over platform shoes!

making some nifty custom spats

Pennywise- fabrics and trim: Silk dupioni and wool yarns

Fresh costume – looks a bit cleaner than a monster who’s been living in the sewers and caverns for a millenia:)

on the tracks outside out shop in the Granary District, Salt Lake City

Pennywise- waiting patiently for the IT sequel

Custom Jousting Attire: DGY Jousting

DGY Jousting in their new 2018 attire by McGrew Studios.

August 2018

We built custom costumes for Young Living’s jousters, squires AND horses in this fantastic project.

This is the DGY (David Gary Young) Jousting Team of Young Living Farm in Mona, Utah, and they are amazing.

DGY Jousting during Utah’s 2018 “Days of ’47” events at the Utah State Fairpark. Photo: David Boyd

The open, lattice-like costumes for the horses are called caparisons and their face shields are called chamfrons. We’ve created these with leather cut-work and inlay, embellished with decorative metal pieces, rivets and crystals.

DGY Jousting during Utah’s 2018 “Days of ’47” events at the Utah State Fairpark. Photo: David Boyd

We built the horse gear using chrome-tanned leathers backed with synthetic Rhino Cloth for extra weight, durability and resistance to wear and mildew.  Each horse echoes its jouster’s colors and sometimes his or her coat of arms, as in the case of Jacob Young’s dragons in black and red.

The word caparison originates from the 1585–95 Middle French caparasson (now caparaçon) and the Old Spanish caparazón, akin to capa or cape.

DGY Jousting during Utah’s 2018 “Days of ’47” events at the Utah State Fairpark. Photo: David Boyd

We made jousters’ sleeveless surcotes from black bison hide. Each of these tunics laces up its sides and has specialty leather inlay as well as hardware and rivets in either gold or silver.

DGY Jousting in their new 2018 attire at Young Living Farm in Mona, Utah Photo: Robert Hirschi

DGY Jousting in their new 2018 attire at Young Living Farm in Mona, Utah Photo: Robert Hirschi

DGY Jousting during Utah’s 2018 “Days of ’47” events at the Utah State Fairpark. Photo: David Boyd

DGY Jousting during Utah’s 2018 “Days of ’47” events at the Utah State Fairpark. Photo: David Boyd

Our design/build team for this was a big one- our shop’s principle  staff with additional stitchers and craftspeople jobbing in.  A great project to make such fantastic looks for DGY.

Jennifer McGrew
Hraefn Wulfson

Diane Thompson

Madeline Mann

Alex Buie

Carolyn Richardson

Liam Buie

Wendy Harbaugh

Andrea Fabrega

Isaac Doubek

Anastasia Najarian

Elijah Najarian

Nathan Dobbin

Konley Shanahan

Dresden Williams

Eliza Williams

Cate Allen

Nick Burke

Magen Mitchell

Uptown Embroidery

Heather Skola

Aubrey Kuefner

Todd Baker

Monica Ramirez

DGY’s armor in these photos is by Valentine Armouries in Las Vegas, NV.

Visit the Young Living farm events page for more info about jousting dates.

Our thanks to

The Buffalo Leather Store in Hayden, Colorado for your great customer service and for finding us the nicest black hides.

HeadnHome for the leather cavalier hats. These are beautifully made and you were wonderful to work with:)

Our thanks to Liz Davies, Young Living‘s Director of Farm Events. Our team loved working with yours. We look forward to more creative design as your production grows.

Thank you to Robert Hirschi and David A. Boyd for your photos here:)

Custom Steampunk Tailoring

The beauty of steampunk fashion, enhanced by the beauty of hair and makeup design genius, Amber Pearson.

McGrew Studios’ custom corset, Zouave jacket, skirt, tap pants and detachable bustle.

2014.

custom patterned and fit in brocade and moire’ over coutil with 24 steel stays plus lacing stays in the center back

bustle development

bustle development

sleeve development

bolero development front

bolero development back

on display, at Salt Lake City’s Absinthe Parlour Salon